The road ends at Chitkul. Not metaphorically — literally. Beyond the last cluster of wooden houses, the tarmac gives way to a dirt track that crosses the Baspa River and disappears into a landscape of glaciers, rockfall, and restricted military territory. Standing at that edge, looking up the valley as it narrows and steepens toward Tibet, you understand why travellers make the long journey to Kinnaur just to reach this one small village at 3,450 metres.
Chitkul is the highest inhabited village in the Baspa Valley and the last permanently settled village before the Indo-Tibet border. Life here follows the seasons in ways that have barely changed in centuries — stone-and-timber houses, hand-woven blankets hung to dry in the mountain sun, the sound of the Baspa River as a constant presence through every conversation.
How to Reach Chitkul from Sangla
Chitkul is 26 kilometres from Sangla along the Baspa Valley road — a drive of roughly 45 minutes to an hour depending on road conditions. The road follows the river upstream through Rakcham (worth a stop — see our Rakcham guide) and Batseri before climbing to Chitkul. It is one of the most scenic stretches of road in all of Himachal Pradesh.
The most comfortable way to make the journey is in a private taxi arranged through your accommodation in Sangla. Shared jeeps also run from Sangla town in the mornings, leaving when full and returning in the afternoon. There is no fixed bus service to Chitkul.
| Detail | Information |
|---|---|
| Distance from Sangla | 26 km |
| Drive time | 45–60 minutes |
| Best transport | Private taxi or shared jeep from Sangla |
| Altitude | 3,450 metres |
| Road condition | Paved but narrow — drive before noon |
| Permit (Indian nationals) | Not required |
| Permit (Foreign nationals) | Inner Line Permit required — obtain in Reckong Peo |
What to See & Do in Chitkul
Walk to the End of the Road
Walk past the last house, past the board marking the end of civilian territory, and stand at the point where the road dissolves into glacial terrain. The Baspa glacier is visible upstream on clear days. The silence at that edge — broken only by the river and the occasional military vehicle — is unlike anything you'll encounter elsewhere in Himachal Pradesh.
The Mathi Devi Temple
A small but beautiful timber temple sits at the entrance to the village, dedicated to Mathi Devi — the local village goddess. Built in kath-kuni style with intricate wooden carvings and prayer flags strung above the entrance. Devotees visit throughout the day. Remove your shoes before entering and ask before photographing inside.
The Village Walk
Chitkul's houses are clustered tightly together, built from deodar wood and slate in the traditional Kinnauri style — multi-storey structures with the lowest level for animals, the middle for storage, and the upper floor for living. Walk the lanes slowly. Look at the woodwork on the window frames, the stacked firewood, the hand-painted doors.
The Baspa River Bank
A short walk from the village brings you to the river bank where the Baspa runs with particular force and clarity — fed directly by glacial melt. The water is an extraordinary green-blue colour and bitterly cold. Sit here for a while. This is the kind of place that recalibrates whatever you came here carrying.
Best Time to Visit Chitkul
The road to Chitkul is closed by snowfall from approximately December through April — exact dates depend on the year's snowfall. The accessible window is May through November.
September 15 to October 15 is the sweet spot — post-monsoon clarity, apple harvest season, and the best light of the year. The peaks — sometimes dusted with first snow — are sharp against clear skies. If you can only visit once, visit then.
May–June offers blossom season and fresh snowmelt conditions. July–August brings monsoon mist that gives Chitkul a haunting, atmospheric quality. November is the last month before winter closure — quiet, cold, and extraordinary in autumn colour.
What to Pack for Chitkul
- Warm jacket or fleece — 4–6°C cooler than Sangla even in summer
- Rain layer — mountain weather changes without warning
- Sunscreen SPF 50+ and good sunglasses — UV at 3,450m is extreme
- Solid walking shoes with grip — lanes and river bank are rocky and uneven
- Water — carry at least 1.5 litres from Sangla. No reliable supply in Chitkul.
- Cash — no ATMs, no card machines
- Fully charged phone with offline maps — signal is intermittent
Where to Eat in Chitkul
Chitkul has a small handful of dhabas and home-stay kitchens serving simple, filling food. Maggi noodles, rajma chawal, dal, thukpa, and omelettes are universally available. A few home-stays produce their own curd and sometimes bread.
One dhaba near the end of the road — usually run by a local family — serves tea with a direct view of the glacier. Drink it slowly.
Suggested Day Itinerary from Sangla
- 7:30am: Leave Sangla. Drive the valley road as the mist is still lifting.
- 8:15am: Stop at river bank below Rakcham for the view up toward the village.
- 8:30am: Walk through Rakcham village — see the gharat water mill and temple.
- 9:30am: Continue to Chitkul (9 km, ~15 minutes).
- 10:00am–1:00pm: Explore Chitkul — end of road, Mathi Devi temple, village lanes, river bank.
- 1:00pm: Lunch at a Chitkul dhaba.
- 2:30pm: Begin return. Brief stop in Rakcham for afternoon light.
- 4:00pm: Back in Sangla for tea and the evening by the river.